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TURBOCHARGING

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By Appointment Only
219 J. P Rizal St. Brgy. Mabini - J. Rizal,
1150 Mandaluyong City, Philippines

Phone # : 02 533-1415
Fax # : 02 535-4865
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Here you can see the results of turbocharging and then also the added performance with our specialized tuning. The vehicle is a Landcruiser 100 series 1HZ. The red line shows standard power, the green line shows a massive improvement once we have fitted the turbo and finally the blue line shows the further improvement with our specialized tuning. The difference between standard (red) and when the vehicle left our workshop (blue) impressed the owner of the vehicle so much they called us only 5 minutes after driving from our workshop to express their happiness and sincere thanks. In their words: “Unbelievable! An incredible improvement!”


efi

Why Turbocharge at Berrima Diesel?

We are Australia's leading 4WD Diesel Turbo Charging Centre and now have a workshop in Mandaluyong City, Metro Manila!

Diesel 4WDs and appropriate turbocharging are the perfect combination. Turbocharging means you no longer have to work your vehicle so hard and this can result in improved engine life.

The high torque output, at low r.p.m. results in truly magnificent off-road performance or towing vehicles.

  • We have been successfully turbocharging 4WD diesels for many years now.
  • With our many years of experience installing turbo systems you are guaranteed total quality in fitting and reliability.
  • Turbocharging is not another cheap accessory like a bullbar. It is a precision piece of equipment and should be fitted and setup by a specialist.
  • Our turbo systems utilize water-cooling, just like all factory turbo-charged 4WD vehicles do today!
  • Turbocharging can increase your engine performance by around 50%!!!!

Turbo Systems For YOUR 4WD Diesel

At Berrima Diesel, we pride ourselves on being Australia’s and the Philippine’s ‘Number 1’ choice for turbo system installations on 4WD’s.

You are guaranteed a trouble free turbo fitting by Australia’s most experienced turbo fitter because we install more turbo chargers than any other workshop.

All our Turbo Systems are manufactured by DTS (Dynamic Turbo Services) to our exacting standards. DTS is by far Australia’s largest ‘turbo specific’ company and we are their ‘Premier Installer’

Below is a list of inclusions in every BERRIMA DIESEL 4WD Turbo System :

  • Water-cooled and waste-gate controlled Mitsubishi Turbo unit.
  • Cast iron ‘split pulse‘(model dependant) exhaust manifold.
  • ‘High Flow’ Cast Alloy Powder coated air ducting.
  • Stainless steel braided oil and water lines.
  • Stainless clamps and clips. Stainless or Anodized nuts and bolts.
  • Standard air filter box or Cast alloy air cleaner box (model dependant)
  • Exhaust ‘Isolation Bellows’ and connection.

Our Turbo Systems are designed to retain as many standard components as possible. Unlike other systems, our Turbo Systems are designed to fit in with your other accessories. Our Turbo Systems are ‘Stand Alone’ meaning that you don’t get told later that you need a larger exhaust or a fuel pump aneroid to make it ‘go’ properly! They perform without other expensive modifications- standard out of the box!

Below is ‘Before’ and ‘After engine outputs for your 4WD. These engine power increases have been obtained through certain development processes including extensive ‘Road Testing‘. In ‘Plain English’ the power on the ground equates to between 1 and 2 gears better ‘on the Road’. Not only do you obtain comfort and safety when overtaking and/or towing.
‘ON-Road’ you also get the ‘grunt’ to get out of sticky ‘OFF-Road’ situations. Whether it be for WORK or PLAY, ‘Berrima Diesel Turbo Systems’ will get you there!


NISSAN Patrol GQ 4.2

 

TOYOTA Landcruiser 78 1HZ

Before – 86 KW 265 NM

 

Before – 96 KW 285 NM

Turbo – 122 KW 362 NM

 

Turbo – 136 KW 368 NM

     

NISSAN Patrol GU 4.2

 

TOYOTA Landcruiser 80 1HZ

Before – 86 KW 264 NM

 

Before – 95 KW 260 NM

Turbo – 122 KW 362 NM

 

Turbo – 136 KW 375 NM

     

NISSAN Navara 2.7

 

TOYOTA Landcruiser 100 1HZ

Before – 57 KW 175 NM

 

Before – 96 KW 285 NM

Turbo – 80 KW 252 NM

 

Turbo – 138 KW 386 NM

     

NISSAN Navara 3.2

 

TOYOTA Hilux 2.8

Before – 76 KW 220 NM

 

Before – 60 KW 138 NM

Turbo – 105 KW 307 NM

 

Turbo – 83 KW 265 NM

     

TOYOTA Landcruiser 60 2H

 

TOYOTA Hilux 3.0

Before – 75 KW 235 NM

 

Before – 65 KW 197 NM

Turbo – 110 KW 340 NM

 

Turbo – 91 KW 278 NM

     

TOYOTA Landcruiser 75 2H

 

Mazda Bravo/ Ford Courier

Before – 75 KW 235 NM

 

Before – 64 KW 174 NM

Turbo – 110 KW 340 NM

 

Turbo – 98 KW 280 NM

     

TOYOTA Landcruiser 75 1HZ

  Mitsubishi Triton 2.8

Before – 95 KW 260 NM

 

Before – 62 KW 176 NM

Turbo – 136 KW 375 NM

 

Turbo – 98 KW 282 NM


Aftermarket Turbo Charging

Aftermarket Turbo Charging has come a long way in the past 10 years. We can thank the Diesel 4WD scene as this is the No.1 segment for aftermarket Turbo Charging in Australia. It has grown from the first of the Old 60 series Landcruisers with the 2H 4 litre diesel to the modern day 100 series 1HZ 4.2 litre diesel.

At the end of the day, other than the hike in the new vehicle price, nothing has really changed with the principle of diesel. Regardless of engine technology, the diesel engine needs lots of air. A diesel has an injector for each cylinder and a pump to supply fuel but it still sucks the air all by itself via a multitude of filters, pipes and ducts!

A brief run down on the process of a turbo

As revs rise, due to the increase in fuel supply by simply applying the right foot to the throttle in a diesel, so should the air supply. Unfortunately this doesn’t happen due to the restrictions we previously mentioned. So at this point, we tend to see smoke out the rear of a diesel (if it’s tuned properly hopefully none) and not going too well up that hill either! The obvious way to overcome this point is to get air to match in this equation.


This is where Turbo Charging comes in

Without getting too technical a turbo charger is a device that uses exhaust gas pressure to drive a fan that supplies air to the engine. Due to the fact that a waste product from the engine is being used for a purpose, the efficiency of a diesel is greatly increased. Remember the engine having to suck air by itself? Now it has the incoming air supplied to it via the turbo right up to the inlet valve. When the inlet valve opens to start the inlet cycle the air only has to be sucked via the valve. Yes, it’s probably hard to get rid of all that misinformation in your mind but it is in fact still the air being sucked in!! The piston is travelling at such a speed that the old ‘Myth’ of air being forced hard in to the combustion chamber by the turbo is only that, a ‘Myths’! So once those old stories are forgotten of “heads being blown clean off” and “crankshafts are being blown out the bottom” you can get on with the thought of getting a turbo fitted for pleasure of driving and towing! We have said it many times before. The turbo is the innocent part of the equation. It is the installation of the system and, in particular, the setting up of the injection system that is crucial to a long trouble free run.


dadandandrew

Exposing the Myths on Fuel Pump Compensators (Aneroid) added to After Market Turbo Systems

There is quite a debate raging about Diesel Fuel Pump Modification Turbo Charged 4WD! This topic is driven by misinformation from diesel pump shops promising a large increase in power in addition to the gain obtained from the turbo!

  • An aneroid is a Php 40,000 to Php 70,000 addition to the existing injection pump. It is solely classified by the component manufacturer as a “Pollution Control Device” fitted to factory turbo diesels.
  • Contrary to this it is promoted by some diesel workshops as a performance device for aftermarket turbo installations! What people don’t understand is that the same heavy fuel loadings obtainable with an Aneroid installed to a diesel injection pump can also be obtained easily at no extra cost without it
  • A correctly set up diesel injection system in conjunction with an aftermarket turbo installation will perform nearly as well as the equivalent factory turbo vehicle. This is the way the aftermarket turbo system has been developed and it should stay that way. The Turbo System should perform “Stand Alone” with no additions like large exhausts and fuel pump modifications.
  • An Aneroid fitted to the injection pump of an aftermarket turbo diesel makes it \“magically” outperform a factory turbo equivalent. The reason for this is obvious – “Over fuelling above the recommended levels “UNSAFELY”! Over fuelling outside the aftermarket turbo system manufacturers specs may mean more power but this is unsafe for the engine.
  • The addition of an Aneroid to a fuel pump is not accepted by most aftermarket turbo manufacturers as it promotes over fuelling which in turn can create a huge reliability cloud over their product.
  • All aftermarket turbo system warranties become void if a pump is modified outside the said aftermarket manufactures specs! Just remember this if you have New Vehicle Warranty being covered by the aftermarket turbo manufacturer like DTS does. You will lose your coverage.
  • The usual argument by the pump shop trying to sell an Aneroid as an addition to a turbo installation is that the engine will run smoother and produce better efficiency. In fact it has no relation to smoothness and the efficiency phrase is a catch.
  • Our biggest concern is, “What specification is the Aneroid set to?” Again the usual story given to a potential customer by the diesel pump shop is that it is set to factory fuel specs. For starters there are NO factory fuel specs for aftermarket turbo installations supplied by either original vehicle manufacturer or the aftermarket turbo manufacturer.

    Secondly the fuel spec that the diesel pump shop usually is talking about is the genuine factory turbo specs for fuel loadings. This is a real worry as the factory turbo is usually a completely combustion system with much more durable pistons to cope with heavy fuel loadings. To set up an aftermarket turbo to match these fuel loadings would lead to an obvious eventual outcome… A damaged engine! Unfortunately this damage is not short term. It happens over time and usually rears its ugly head eventually.
  • The only Specifications supplied by Turbo System manufacturers are Boost Pressure, Air/Fuel ratios and Exhaust Temperatures (No engine output figures are ever supplied)! These were obviously not developed with a Fuel Pump Aneroid and so could not accurately be used with one!
  • At the end of the day it is a fact that if the fuel loadings are kept within the aftermarket turbo manufacturers specifications via Boost and Exhaust readings you will not only keep your warranty (which will most likely become Void if an Aneroid is fitted) you will have your diesel engine for the long term!!

In summary, it pays to be educated in making decisions in life. At Berrima Diesel we are here to educate and have been for many years. We are not here to rubbish other products or services but to educate on the true facts so as you can make an informed decision. With the amount of misinformation out there on diesel and turbo charging diesels we feel obliged to inform you of facts.


andrew scottandandrew

turbo

Turbo Myths and Facts

Myth – This turbo is totally oil cooled as water cooling is troublesome


Fact – There is no such thing as small oil cooled turbo charger. All turbo chargers are oil fed due to the fact that they all have bearings that need lubricating. Turbo Charger units are either water – cooled or not! Full Stop!! Unfortunately most aftermarket turbo kit manufacturers specify a non – water cooled or uses the water – cooled turbo, but leave the water – cooling disconnected. All for a cost sake. As usual, the excuses used leave the customer confused! Water cooling came about to increase the durability and life expectancy of a turbo unit. This is visible if we look at factory turbo charged 4WDs. They nearly all use water – cooling.


Myth – The engine will run lower engine temperature if it is Intercooled.


Fact – A diesel engine compresses the cylinder air charge to approximately 500PSI. This is done as the air needs to be red hot so that when the diesel fuel is injected, it immediately ignites. As we can see, hot air for a diesel is not a problem. Intercoolers are generally sold with the myth of running cooler denser air and lower temperatures, whilst dramatically increasing power. The temperature part would be true only if the increased power part was left out. To get the increase in power sold with an Intercooler we now have to increase the fuel loading higher. As I always say, more fuel makes more power with the offset of more heat.

Let’s now look at the other possible problems associated with Intercooling. Over fuelling and hungry for power is the biggest one which definitely ‘cooks’ engines. The most common of all though is radiator air flow restriction. The radiator needs cool air to cool the hot engine coolant. Generally up front we have a bulbar, driving lights, bug screens (all diverting small amounts of air flow), we then have the introduced Intercooler dumping hot air over the air conditioning condenser (most air conditioners shut off if the engine coolant starts to get too hot to try and aid in keeping cool air going to the radiator) which is dumping now extremely hot air over the old radiator. The radiator is not getting the leftovers and is expected to cool the power enhanced, hard working engine. This problem gets worse as the ambient air temperature increases.

So... an Intercooler added to a turbo system might not run cooler.


Myth – Particular companies do not increase the engine output too much, when turbo charging, so as to keep long engine life.


Fact – This comment is alarmist! It is impossible to gauge the original life of a diesel engine let alone one that is not turbo charged. If a turbo system is set up correctly, it will have no effect on engine life. We suggest that engine life could be possibly lengthened, with the install of a correctly set up turbo systems, due to the fact that it is now running with increased efficiency which can help with reducing soot build up in engine oil around piston rings etc! We see vehicles that we turbo charged many years ago coming back with 500,000+ km on the engine and no sign of it wearing out. Diesels last if correctly maintained.


Myth – You must fit a Fuel pump aneroid (fuel compensator) when you fit a turbo as it will run better and give you more power.


Fact – For starters the addition of an aneroid to your injection pump will cost upwards of Php 40,000 – Php 70,000 on top of a turbo system. It is specifically designed as a Pollution Control Device and is fitted only to factory turbo diesels. Unfortunately, in aftermarket turbo fitment, an aneroid can be used as a device to mask over fuelling and over powering the engine. I find it most amusing when I hear comments from ‘Diesel Pump shops’ like – “If it runs too lean it will burn holes through the pistons so it much is fuelled up. With an aneroid we can fuel it up!” This is only technically possible with a Petrol Engine!!!

Remember this:
Rich is Hot (more fuel)
Lean is Cool (less fuel)


Myth – Some companies promote large, low boost cool running turbo mist!


Fact – It’s simple physics. Pressure and volume are relative to each other. A turbo running higher boost gets higher volumes of air to an engine than the one running lower boost. The higher the boost the more air volume! A turbo is only an air supply device. Boost pressures used in turbo charging are the fuel and relatively low and don’t generate much heat if any. If we kept compressing the air to a couple of hundred PSI though, air would soon heat up. It still stands that fuel makes the heat in the equation!! Loads of fuel means loads of heat. A correctly matched turbo spins up fast so as to keep a nice lean mixture down low and to get a torque increase early in the rev range (a lean mixture is cool and clean in a diesel!!!). As we know, diesel engines produce maximum torque at low engine revs so we need a turbo to be at maximum boost at those low engine revs. What happened now to the ‘large low revving turbo’? Not much, until the engine revs gets up high. Too late for the boost to arrive at high revs! In fact if the boost is kept low and the turbo spins up slowly, the fuel and air mixture can be quite rich in the low to mid working range of the engine. “Rich means heat in a diesel”. That is why using a large “cool” turbo charger is fallacy! With the high revving diesels of today, a turbo needs to boost early and hold the boost through the large rev range. The variation in a 4WD diesel rev range can be 4000rpm between idle and redline.


Myth – Use the old manifold and just adapt the turbo to it.


Fact – This is a real worry. The original exhaust manifold is not designed to have the weight of a turbo unit swinging off it or the increased back pressure that a turbo creates in the system. Having a specifically designed new exhaust manifold for the turbo bolt to is only common sense. A specific turbo exhaust manifold is internally split for cylinders 1, 2, 3 from 4, 5, and 6. This is specific for exhaust flow and increased low speed torque.


Myth – The turbo must be mounted high up in the engine bay as not so crack in water.


Fact – High mounting in certain engine bays can lead to excessive engine bay temperature. We have seen some funny cases! The most common is systems using a high mount position for the turbo in the Nissan Patrol. We have seen some melted glove boxes, cooked batteries and even paint damage to bonnets. As far as water crossings, cracking turbo housings go, I don’t know who would drive at full speed long enough to get the turbo orange hot and then plough into a river deep enough to fill the engine bay. You can imagine the picture let alone the splash! The castings are strong enough to withstand splashing and possible immersion, whilst hot, under most conditions.


Myth – You need a high flow foam filter when turbo charging.


Fact – If you don’t know our stance on this subject just ask! Ask the turbo reconditioning industry how much foam they find behind compressor wheels in turbo chargers when they are being rebuilt.


Myth – The problem is they use a petrol turbo unit.


Fact – No such thing. A turbo is a turbo. Turbo units are designed on exhaust flow not the fuel used!


Turbo Questions

Your turbo charger is engineered to match the specific requirements of the engine it is fitted to. Each is dependent on the other to maintain optimum performance. Don’t think of the turbo as a bolt – on accessory, rather as an integral part of the engine. The turbos’ requirements are similar to the engines’. It is, therefore essential that scheduled servicing, using good quality oils and parts, is central to caring for your turbo.

In many instances, Berrima Diesel received turbo chargers which have been misdiagnosed as having turbo problem, when actually the turbo is not at fault. Incorrect fault finding is often caused by a lack of product knowledge. Many contributory items around the engine bay can trick the unsuspecting into believing the turbo is the culprit, when in fact it is not. Unfortunately, if the real problem is not diagnosed before a replacement turbo charger is fitted, the problem still exists.


“Turbos don’t die. They are killed!”

A turbo can be killed in many ways.
Foreign object damage results in either the air intake “compressor wheel” or exhaust “turbine” wheel being damaged. The former is often caused by someone accidentally leaving a nut or other foreign body in the air induction hoses. Please be extremely careful if going to an aftermarket air – filter. Genuine is best there! In the latter case, this may be caused by part of an engine component, such as a piece of valve, exiting the engine in a rather hurry! In both cases it results in severe turbo charger damage instantly.

Turbo chargers are simple in operation, but manufactured to precise tolerances as fine as 1/1,000,000 of an inch. The turbo unit manufacturers balance and test every single turbo charger many times, including final assembly. The balancing methods and procedures are unique. Without them, no turbo charger can be balanced to the ultra – fine tolerances required for today’s high speed turbos. It is now common for turbochargers to spin up to more than 150,000rpm.

That’s approximately 35 times faster than most diesel engines rev at the red line! Sophisticated machinery and highly trained factory staff ensure that the highest standards are always maintained.

When driving any turbocharged engine, whether it be petrol or diesel, always allow the engine to wrap – up fully, until the water temperature gauge reaches normal, before full throttle is used. Try to plan the end of your journey sympathetically. Don’t use full throttle or allow the engine to labour during the last few miles. This will prevent excessive heat build up within the turbo when the engine is turned off. Also, when coming to a standstill, try to leave the engine idling for a few extra seconds to allow the heat to decrease. No needs for a timer though, just undo your seat belt first and then turn off the engine. Never rev the engine just as the ignition is turned off. Remember the turbo spins at a far greater speed than the engine, but is lubricated with engine oil. Once the engine stops the oil supply ceases within a few seconds. In reality, none of the above traits will cause a turbo charger to fail immediately, but repeatedly over a long period , they could reduce the life of your turbo charger.

If it becomes necessary to seek advice about a turbo charger or a turbo related problem, always rely on a professional. Berrima Diesel, together with DTS turbo chargers, are Australia’s leading turbo specialist and are acknowledged as one of the most experienced turbo installation companies in the world.

It cannot be stressed too much how important it is when purchasing turbo charger systems, always to choose the top brand name. Consider this, as with so many things in life, quality costs, and there are sometimes cheaper turbos for sale. Without the safeguard of using a Berrima Diesel turbo charger, you run a serious risk that your short – term saving may turn out to be a long – term nightmare.


What is ‘Boost’?

Boost is a term used to describe the increase in pressure, provided by the turbo charger, to the volume if air, entering the engine. This pressure is expressed in a number of different units, (BAR, ATM, Kpa, P.S.I), but they all mean the same thing. For purposes if approximate comparison – 1 BAR=1ATM=100Kpa=14.7 P.S.I. When the pressure of the engine’s inlet air is increased, the engine’s power output is increased. This pressure increased is called “boost”.


How does fitting a Dynamic Turbo system affect the power of my vehicle?

Modern 4WD engines, typically produce peak torque (pulling power), at around 2,000 – 2,500rpm and peak horsepower at around 3,500 – 4,000rpm. Turbo boost starts at approximately 750rpm and rises progressively to its maximum pressure of approximately 70 Kpa (10 PSI) by approximately 2,000rpm. At this point, the percentage torque increase of a correctly tuned installation is approximately 40% at the wheels. This continues to the peak horsepower point of 3,500 – 4,000rpm. At no point is it ever any less than standard. For example, at 1,500rpm, it is at least 25% greater than the standard vehicle at the same rpm.


Can I fit a Dynamic Turbo system myself and, if not, how long and what is the cost of having it fitted for me?

While most competent mechanics could probably fit a Dynamic Turbo system, tuning requires specialised knowledge. The lack of this knowledge could have serious consequences. In addition, warranty can only be provided on Dynamic Turbo systems which are installed by authorised facilities.
The cost of having the installation performed by Andrew at Berrima Diesel is only about 10% of the total purchase price. This provides a warranted, correctly tune, “no hassle” installation for the customer. All diesel vehicle installation can be performed in one day.


What creates the host heat? Fuel or turbo boost?

Diesels do not need an air control ( e.g manifold butterfly valve. The only ones requiring a butterfly are vacuum operated governor pumps) to operate. The more air the better.
Add too much fuel to the equation and the exhaust gas temperature rises rapidly.


What type of oil and how often should it be changed?

Turbos must have good quality oil. Use either a mineral, semi or fully – synthetic engine oil. Berrima Diesel recommends Shell Rimula range or Shell Helix Ultra. Change oil at intervals recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.


How long does a turbo last?

On average, as long as the engine or longer with regular engine servicing and good quality engine oil.


What is a ‘dump’ valve or ‘blow – off’ valve?

A valve which relieves boost – pressure between the compressor outlet and engine as the throttle is closed (Only required on throttle valve controlled diesels which are rarely seen these days). These are commonly fitted to heat up petrol cars so it sounds good changing gears among other reasons!


Can I fit a turbo from another 4WD?

No, virtually all turbocharger are different inside even if they appear similar on the outside. The turbo model, e.g. Mitsubishi TD04, is only the model, not the specification.


Should I leave my engine ‘ticking over’ before it is turned off?

Not for normal every day driving, but still worthwhile if the engine has been under load or raced before being turned off. For example, towing a caravan or after climbing a long incline.


Why is it important to balance a turbo charger?

Without highly accurate balancing, vibration will create a whining noise, reduce turbo bearing life and reduce turbo efficiency.


How much boost does my turbo produce?

Correctly set up diesel 4WD turbo chargers run up to between 10PSI to 12PSI with Intercooler turbo charged engines running upwards of 13PSI.


How many PSI in one bar?

14.7PSI = 1 bar


Are all actuators the same?

No, each has a different opening pressure and rate.


Oil in the turbo inlet pipe – should I be concerned?

A small amount of oil usually exists, drawn in from the engine’s crankcase breather system. High engine wear will increase the amount of oil found, and will require further engine tests. (not turbo).


Should a turbo be serviced?

No specific turbo servicing is required, but regular quality engine servicing is needed to reduce the chance of turbo charger problems.


What is water – cooled turbo?

The central part of the turbo, housing the bearings, is surrounded by a water jacket through which the engine’s water coolant is passed. This water continues to circulate after the engine is turned off, cooling the turbo and preventing heat soak.


Do I need to upgrade my exhaust?

Generally not. Our systems are designed to run utilising as much genuine component as possible. Some systems on the market promote exhaust change as it is required by that particular turbo. Doing so usually picks up more noise than performance.


How noisy should a turbo be?

Only an unbalanced, worn out or damaged turbo will produce any significant turbo noise.


What is an intercooler?

A special type of radiator which cools air before it enters the engine. As a turbo compresses air, the air heats up. Power can be increased if the air entering the engine is cooler. The cooler air is more dense meaning that more fuel can be injected for more power.


Will my vehicle run ‘cooler’ with an intercooler?

Theoretically, but not always the case! We commonly find Intercooled 4WD vehicles running hot due to over – fuelling and radiator restriction. Restriction meaning that hot air passes out of the Intercooler over the air conditioning condenser and finally the radiator. The poor old radiator is left with scraps of extremely hot air and then is expected to cool the engine. We don’t advise fitting them as hot Australian conditions can often be the catalysts for engine heat problems.


What will happen to my fuel consumption?

More power generally means more fuel. With a diesel turbo system, fuel consumption stays generally the same and can become better under towing conditions.